Show Assisting For Make-Up Artists by Carol Brown
Following on from the previous article on producing show make-up Carol has written an article about assisting on shows.
The best advice I could give to anyone looking to assist would be to persevere with emailing make-up artists and agencies. Most agencies keep a record of good people (a very good ex-assistant of mine was on an agency “help register” and they now represent her). I appreciate, and always try to answer emails sent to me but by contacting an agency you increase your chances of getting work; I am represented by DWManagement and have been very fortunate to have had some exceptionally talented help through them.
It’s my responsibility to organise a team so that we have enough time to get the make-up done in the time allowed.
The more complicated the make-up x how many models = size of team.
Very rarely have I ever had to work with an entirely new team, usually I hope to have a couple of regulars but I will happily introduce one or two newcomers and allocate easier, but still important, tasks. We work as a team and I try to make it as stress free as possible.
I do my best to get the best deal that I can, usually products, but please know that I will have tried my hardest to get as much as possible of useful, relevant kit. In return I will expect you to turn up with a comprehensive basic kit including brushes, foundations, concealers, powder… familiar stuff that you feel comfortable working with (I will include a kit list later in the article as a rough guide). Fashion week is a busy time for good assistants and I want to be fair and give you the chance to get as much work as you can but, please, if you have another show to go to and have to leave early, don’t assume that you will be the only one. Either let me know at time of booking or as soon as possible so that you can be accommodated and it gives me chance to book extra cover. Never ever leave it until the show to let me know! Equally, if at the last minute you fall ill / have a better offer, please let me know as soon as possible with as sincere an apology as is humanly possible.
I once had a complete order of make up delivered to me on a Friday morning for a show the following Monday…except it wasn’t the make up as ordered but a few dozen boxes of Sun Block from the same company. During frantic phone calls to the PR who, in turn was urgently calling the out of town warehouse to courier over reordered stock (PR offices don’t necessarily carry enough stock for a show) I had a call from an assistant to say that she wasn’t going to do the show because she had a paid job
Not – could I…
Not – sorry, would it be possible…
I understood…but I minded because of the way it was handled. I don’t like letting people down; do unto others…
Before the show I will have had meetings and run throughs, the look will have been decided upon and the colours ordered through the sponsoring company. Any ‘extras’ such as eyelashes, glitters etc might have to be bought but that’s my responsibility to provide anything unusual and I will try to give you as much notice of colours / design as possible, either an email description or a picture from the run through.
If I give you a job to do and you don’t feel that you have the confidence or the ability to do it well then please tell me rather than have a go and do it badly. If there is time I will gladly help you with it, or I will be able to give you something else to do. If anyone in my team is embarrassed, concerned, not totally confident or in any way terrorised by anyone or anything, I would expect you to please come to me and I will deal with it… I want a happy team and gorgeous models! If you’re not comfortable working with false eyelashes or specific skin shades, in fact anything at all you don’t understand, tell me! I will help you.
Never assume that anything that needs doing by a model will be done without you first asking… then checking that it’s been done… and then asking again!
Take for example the issue of sock marks. You’ll hear:
“These socks don’t mark” (oh yes they do)
“It’s cold”
“I’ll take them off in a minute. I’m just going outside to have a ciggy / go to the loo / find my friend (by which time I’ll forget and wander off to get a Red Bull / get my hair done)”
Sock marks take at least an hour to fade and even if you take the colour out with foundation there will still be visible ridges so ask the model, then check and ask again until it’s done… It’s the little things that are so important!
If it’s a Spring/Summer collection and there are likely to be bare legs, the same principle applies for ridges down the sides of the legs from very tight jeans… they will mark.
This brings me nicely to the subject of prioritising. Nail varnish drying time – this can be done ASAP and I’m sorry if it’s cold but socks have to come off and stay off if toe-nails are painted. Dry lips are horrible with natural make up, horrible with matte lipstick…just not wanted! The cure is repeated application of lip balm as and when necessary during make-up, not just before you do the lipstick, by then it’s too late!
You must get as much done as soon as you can – 4 hours seems like a long time but allow for hair, fittings, walk through and possibly two or three models arriving at the last minute from a preceding show at which point it’s all hands on deck!
Dress to work easily and comfortably – Fashion Scruffy chic. I’m always in jeans and Converse – if I’m kneeling on the floor rubbing foundation on legs I really don’t need to be worrying about what I’m wearing.
Watch the walk through, it’s a chance to see the models under the catwalk lights. A couple of girls will be finished (including lipstick) for approval. Usually I leave the lipstick till last, although depending on time if I’m doing a strong colour I might apply a base layer of colour and blot well, so that if the worst comes to the worst at least we’ve got something there and I always have a good supply of straws for drinking without smudging.
This is the sort of basic kit that you should bring :
Light facial moisturiser / serum (heavy moisturisers make it more difficult to apply make-up immediately and can cause the girls to look a bit sweaty)
Concealers
Foundations
Powder
Mascara
Blushers
Eyeshadows (always handy to have a reasonable range of neutrals which can also be used for eyebrows)
Lip Balm
Body Lotion
Cotton buds / MU remover wipes / tissues
Nail varnish remover
Cotton wool pads
Very handy, but not essential…
( I will probably have these, but it’s worth making you aware)
Girly stuff (tampons / panty liners)
Painkillers
Deodorant (spray type)
Disposable razors + shaving cream (sample sachets are very handy)
And STRAWS!!!
If I can get a couple of you out front to watch the show then that’s a bonus and good experience for next time, but please don’t expect it! Most of us will be busy backstage checking the line up for powder, smudged lips etc and combing eyebrows back tidily into place if clothes have been dragged over the head… any little thing that needs quick attention.
It’s always appreciated when somebody can work well using their own initiative, there is always something to be done backstage! Think about whether there are any girls sitting around who need their nail varnish removing; is there an empty make-up chair and a girl who’s just about to have her hair finished? Can I grab her? The best assistants, the ones who will get booked again and again are those who don’t stand around waiting to be told – we’re there to help each other to get the job done.
And finally please enjoy!
